This year’s road trip has been a little different. 

We swapped the GX, our beloved expedition truck, last year, for a trailer boat. 

Why? The big truck wasn’t quite working out for us any longer and we just wanted to go back to boating. 

A trailer boat made sense. We could tow it and launch anywhere we wanted, no need to put up with heavy seas or sit out the weather. And the boat could double up as a caravan on land. We’d have the best of both worlds, Finding the right type and size of boat was a challenge, but after a few months of research, we did find it. Meet the Whittley CR3100, the largest legally traileable sports cruiser in Australia. Typical, some of you would say, knowing Mr T’s love for big boats. 

Of course, we had to wait for completion of the build, then carry out a few tests in our local waters in Sydney. Until we realised it was already mid-year, time to take off on our usual winter escape up the Australian East Coast.

Our Destination: Hamilton Island in the Whitsundays. 

Towing our heavy rig around Sydney busy streets can be challenging, but once on the open highways, it has been a breeze to tow. Admittedly we had to upgrade our towing vehicle to a RAM, which combined with our sleek looking cruiser has earned us quite a few looks along the way. 

And the most frequently asked question while on this road trip: “Have you put this boat in the water yet? “

Good things happen to those who wait, and after 2 weeks, finally CR3100 was afloat. We launched in Airlie Beach and headed straight for Hamilton Island.

Hamilton Island. 

Affectionally referred as Hammo, the island is in the heart of the Whitsunday Island group, 2h30 flight from Sydney. In our case, it was a 1,900 km drive to Airlie Beach followed by a 60mn boat ride.  

It was purchased in 1975 by Keith Williams and an associate for a grazing lease. Williams commenced construction of Hamilton Island Harbour and the resort complex shortly after. The resort took a few years to build and was inaugurated in 1986. We first visited, not long afterwards, staying at the newly opened Whitsunday Holiday Apartments. It was March 1988, our very first road trip and also very first encounter with a tropical cyclone, TC Charlie. I recall requiring helicopter evacuation along with a few other guests. This, the golf buggies and the live dolphins in the main pool, are my earliest memories of  the island. 

We returned often during the 1990s and 2000s, when we lived in FNQ. In fact it became our cruising backyard.  We’ve spent many Christmases, weekends away, even got married there. At some point we contemplated buying land and settle there. We kept sailing around the world instead.

We stopped here last,12 years ago, while completing our final Pacific crossing. Changes were afoot then, with more under way. The resort had changed hands from Keith Williams, to BT Australia, then was purchased by the Oatley family ( the winemakers ). 

Now under the new ownership of US-based investment firm, Blackstone, we thought we’d check out the new version.

Day 1

Arrival , check in and drinks by the pool

It is a rough ride from Airlie Beach. With a 30knots southerly breeze and an outgoing tide, the crossing of Whitsunday passage feels pretty much like a horseride in our 31ft boat. We are greeted by the marina staff who assigns us to our berth, on the quiet side of the marina ( as opposed to the noisier side, opposite the pub)! After some time to recover from the crossing, we head across the hill to explore. 

The island is “split” into two distinct areas: the resort centre is on the eastern side of the hill. That’s where you will find the main accommodation, some restaurants, fitness centre and swimming pools. On the western side is the marina village or commercial hub, with the airport, the ferry wharves, the marina, a bakery, a cafe, a pub, more restaurants, a fancy yacht club and a very well appointed IGA supermarket. The latter is new to us, as is the highway patrol car on standby near the wharf.

We stop for a drink at Sails,  overlooking the main pool. The dolphins are no longer there ( they were relocated in the early 90s ). But the view over Catseye Bay hasn’t changed. It is still stunning. As is the sunset, back on the marina side. 

Day 2

Hiking, self-drive exploring and fine dining 

Hamilton Island is car free, and besides walking, using the free island shuttle, the only way to get around at your own pace is to hire a golf buggy. 

Just as well, as we plan to hike all over the island. Retracing the steps we took over 30 years ago. There are nearly 20 km of walking trails starting from the resort centre, some of the most challenging ones we used to go on. Mr T used to hike daily to Passage Peak, the highest lookout on the island.  We’re not that ambitious nowadays, and stick to the moderate graded trails. It is still a good workout to reach the Flat Top lookout, where the view over the resort and the surrounding islands is well worth the effort. 

We zoom around the rest of the island, reminiscing about the old haunts and discovering new corners. A quiet afternoon follows. Then it’s time for dinner for our special occasion dinner. 

The Outrigger restaurant, where we held our wedding reception, 30 years ago, has been completely rebuilt and turned into the signature Catseye Pool Club, run by Sydney celebrated chefs Josh and Julie Niland. Located on the northern end of Catseye Bay and set by the water’s edge, the restaurant’s menu feature fresh Australian ingredients served sharing-style. We’ve always liked the relaxed and simple feel of island dining. This is a slightly more elevated version. 

The staff greets us warmly and explains how each dish is designed to be shared ( i.e the pricing reflects this ). It takes us a while to decide, and a beer and a glass of wine later, we settle on a seafood entree and a meat main we’re both happy with.

We start with the Selection of Raw Wild Fish, Coral Prawns & Scallops . It’s accompanied by Bunya Red Farm Capers, Shallots & Black Pepper,  Miso & Chive Crème Fraiche, Joseph First Press Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Salt & Vinegar Potato Crisp. 

My kingdom for the freshest of seafood! Mr T can’t stop eating the crisps and the pickles while I adore the miso creme fraiche and vow to reproduce this at home.

The main is an easy choice for meat lover Mr T. Charcoal Grilled Flanken Beef Short Ribs served with Chimichurri, Hand Cut Fries & Seaweed Salt, Grilled Peppers & Salted Anchovy, Smoked Cabbage, Parsley, Garlic & Lemon, and a  Salad of Ox Heart Tomatoes & Gazpacho Vinaigrette. The ribs are cooked to perfection, still a little chewy but very tasty. The vegetables are my favourites though, and I don’t mind letting Mr T have a bigger share of meat in exchange for extra cabbage and tomatoes! 

When it comes to dessert, the choice is between ice cream, sorbets, fruity or  chocolate options. Julie’s Chocolate Cake is a no brainer. With Salted Hazelnut & Cocoa Nib and Grilled Blood Orange Curd, it is the perfect end to our anniversary dinner. 

Day 3

Relax, seafood takeaway lunch, One Tree Hill sunset and pizza dinner

What to do on a rainy and windy day? Brave the elements and explore. 

It feels strange to be back after all these years. While visiting with the young family in the past, we would fill each day with activities: mini golf, water sports, wildlife park, go-kart, and endless hours in the pool…Nowadays, we’re more about perfecting the art of doing nothing. Reading a book on the back deck, watching the incessant ballet of yachts in the marina, browsing in the shops or idly snacking in tropical gardens, relaxing is the order of the day. 

In saying that, the ultra laid back atmosphere we remember is no longer there. It definitely feels like a global corporate resort. 

Gone is the Barefoot Bar replaced by the Marina Cafe serving macha lattes and breakfast bowls. The architecturally stunning Yacht Club and surrounding luxury villas take pride of place where once mangroves and mudflats were plenty.  

Some things haven’t changed much though. The little church is still there, doing a roaring business with island weddings. As is Popeye’s Fish and Chips and Trader’s Pete, which we visit for old time’s sake. Enjoying a fisherman’s basket at the former and buying a few keepsakes at the latter.

And when the sun finally deigns making an appearance, One Tree Hill is still the place to be for a sunset drink, with the addition of a trendy bar and hundreds of guests. 

We follow up with a casual dinner at Pizzeria and Gelato Bar. The margarita and piu carne pizzas are very satisfying choices .  

Day 4

Scenic trail hiking, casual bakery lunch and Bommie deck sunset 

We are supposed to depart for the islands today but another wet and windy  day means we elect to stay put. 

Suffering from cabin fever, I’m tempted to book in for a beauty treatment  at the resort Spa wumurdaylin, but they are booked out for the day. “ Most guests pre-book Madam…”

Instead, I persuade Mr T to squeeze in another hike along the scenic trail. Despite the rain, it is a fun walk amongst wildlife ( we run into wallabies ), burgeoning flora and sandy coves. In return for our efforts, we indulge in pies and sausage rolls at Bob’s Bakery ( though I am not sure it was a smart move ). 

The day ends with sunset drinks at the Bommie deck. 

Back on the boat, we check the weather forecast: wind dropping and full sun for the rest of the week. I am beyond excited. As much as I’ve loved our Hamilton Island stay, I have longed to cruise around the islands again. 

My tips for Hamilton island:

1. Weather:

We travelled in early August, in the midst of Australian winter. Queensland weather is typically mild and dry, with sea breezes offshore. We were prepared for windy days, however not for heavy rain. Indeed, locals told us it was unseasonably wet and cooler than usual. While it is still better than colder weather in Sydney or Melbourne, be ready for not-so-perfect island weather. On the flip side, summer weather ( November to April ), is generally much warmer and less wind means smoother waters. However humidity is high, as  is the risk of tropical cyclone. 

2. Getting there:

The most convenient way is by direct flights from Sydney, which land at Hamilton Island airport. Another option is to fly to Proserpine ( on the main land ), then drive to Airlie Beach and catch a ferry to the island. It is generally cheaper, but takes much longer. Still, it’s a good option if you want to drive around the area, as we did.

3. Book ahead:

Golf cart hire, spa treatment, special dinners…of course you can leave it until arrival to decide, but trust me, most things do sell out. We had to wait a day for a buggy and I could not get same day treatment at the spa. Thankfully I booked our dinner at Catseye Pool Club online 10 days prior.