Our time in Osaka is limited and we all have different agendas. I like castles and art. Anne wants to shop and eat. Marc is happy to wander as long as we stop for coffee. Mr T goes with the flow, looking forward to a drink at the end of the day. Come along for our express exploration of Osaka. Where we visit classic landmarks, a trendy coffee shop, the quirkiest museum and enjoy dining in a local izakaya. 

Our first bullet train from Hakone to Osaka is an impressive ride! 

It is fast, quiet and feels like we’re in a futuristic bubble. What we didn’t realise, however, is that Shinkansen trains have their own stations to arrive and depart from. When arriving in Shin-Osaka station, Mr T and the kids look at me for directions to the hotel. They are less than impressed when I explain that we need to look for the metro, and travel to another station. “Just 3 stops to Umeda/Osaka Station!”, I assure them.

We’re staying at the APA Hotel & Resort Osaka Umeda Eki Tower. With over 940 hotels all over Japan, APA is the country’s largest hotel chain. Self-described as “highly functional urban style hotels”, they seek to become the “Made in Japan” of the hotel industry with features such as prime locations, time saving automated systems, and environmentally friendly rooms. What does any of this mean? Let’s take our hotel as an example. 

The room at APA Hotel Umeda is extremely small, 11 sqm2. What feels cramped to us is explained as “downscaled on purpose to reduce carbon emissions”. They are designed in such a manner that every facility is within arms reach. With room switches, underbed  storage, oval bathtubs doubling up as showers…this is compact and efficient living. At least we have a view: highway, high rise and concrete jungle and mountains in the distance. 

I must say the location is great. We are adjacent to 3 train stations ( Umeda, Osaka and local subway ) and the Umeda district with its upscale departments stores and big hotels. More time saving awaits with the implementation of automated check-in machines and a free check out system on departure. 

But the best part for us has to be the buffet breakfast.

I am in awe of the variety of the dishes on offer. I totally skip the western section ( though the croissants look inviting ) and head straight for the Osaka specialties. Pork katsu, meat udon and takoyaki call my name every morning! 

Still , despite all these nifty features, we feel a bit claustrophobic. So we decide to spend as much time exploring outside.  

Our first night is overwhelming.

We’ve arrived mid-afternoon. Anne decides to make the most of the remaining daylight and goes shopping on her own. The rest of us meander around the Umeda district.

We eschew big hotels and department stores, losing ourselves looking for random places where to have a drink and a feed. A lot of the bars require eating-in or are for members-only. As darkness falls, so does the temperature and Mr T’s willingness to wander.

We eventually find the Nagahama Tavern,  a small bar in the back alley behind the hotel.

With friendly and cozy vibes, this izakaya serves terrific food and lots of beers! We feast on fried chicken kara-age, cabbage salad, takoyaki and noodle soup. 

Next day is the only one full day we have to explore.

Marc and I make an early start.

Anne is studying and Mr T can’t cope with the cold morning. 

We walk thru the Umeda/Osaka station to the Umeda Sky Building.

Completed towards the end of Japan’s economic boom in the 1990s, it is an iconic feature of Osaka’s skyline. The building consists of two separate towers that stretch 173 meters into the sky, linked at their summits by the Floating Garden Observatory. 

It is not just an office skyscraper but a symbol of Osaka’s urban evolution. Clad in approximately 17,000 half-mirrored glass panels, the building reflects the sky and surrounding cityscape. It is an architectural masterpiece with a see-through escalator that glides through the sky and the open-air Observatory on the rooftop. It also hosts a museum, a cinema and a variety of restaurants and shops, making it a popular destination for entertainment and leisure.

A marvel in itself, The Floating Garden Observatory, offers visitors an open-air view from the 39th floor, showcasing the urban landscape of Osaka in a panoramic spectacle. Here, the wind is cold and fierce on this December morning. But Marc and I really enjoy this uninterrupted  vista of the city. It seems to go on forever to the distant hills. 

By 12pm we pick up Mr T and Anne from the hotel, to visit the Osaka Castle.

It is a short metro ride and a nice walk thru the surrounding park. The castle though is very busy with tourists. Luckily we bought the tickets online, saving ourselves from queuing at the gate. 

One of Osaka’s most prominent landmark, Osaka Castle was first built in 1583 by Hideyoshi Toyotomi, known as the “Napoleon of Japan”. Since then it has been the scene of various conflicts, and was burned down and rebuilt several times. The current castle keep was reconstructed in 1931.

Inside the tower is a museum that houses over 10,000 historical artifacts. Armor displays, old scrolls and weaponry along with interactive displays  give an insight into the brutal Japanese Shogun history and the power struggles that led to the foundation of the Edo era. If you’re into samurai history, this is fascinating stuff.

Climbing the eight flights of stairs to the top of the castle, we take in the sweeping view over the cityscape and the Osaka plains.

Around 3pm, we take another train ride to Nishishinsaibashi.

Our goal is to find LILO Roasters. It is one of the coffee places on Marc’s list.

They have a bit of a following, known for their focus on specialty coffee, the use of a state of the art roaster ( hello built-in computer! ) and unique flavours.  It is a tiny shop, with only two tables inside and benches outside for us to wait. My espresso blend was nice and chocolatey. The special single origin is memorable. It’s the weirdest coffee I ever tasted, like passion fruits and raspberries! Marc loves it though, “it’s like wine tasting, Mum!”. 

We follow with a stroll thru the busy  alleys of Amerikamura. Ame-mura (as locals call it ) is packed with vintage clothing stores, Japanese indie brands, and resale shops featuring American imports. We browse thru a shop for used vinyls, CDs and records,  hunt for retro finds at another. If you’re into fashion, music, or art, Ame-mura offers a raw, youthful side of Osaka that’s completely different from its historical sites.

A short walk away is the popular district of Dotonbori. Wow, so many bright lights, loud music and hustlers along the canal… this is Osaka’s most famous eating street. Most people come here if only for one night, to experience the neon lit stores and the amazing food options.  It’s crowded and super touristy but a lot of fun.

By then, Anne is leaving us again to have dinner with friends.

I push the boys to visit the  teamLab exhibition at the Nagai Botanical Garden. It is a bit out of the way. “It’s yet another 30-minute metro ride”, says Mr T. However, it is well worth the hike. Compared to the castle and Dotonbori, there’s hardly anyone there. 

teamLab is an international art collective with installations all over Japan, as well as Australia, Singapore and the Middle East. The  displays in Tokyo are so popular, tickets need to be booked weeks in advance. Needless to say we missed out there, and I am very happy to find that there is no crowd whatsoever in Osaka. 

This is a night open-air museum. It features a collection of artwork that uses the plants, lake, and ecosystem of the Botanical Garden. It’s cold and dark, yet beautiful and atmospheric. 

Finally, we realise we’re 45 minutes away from the hotel. No one is keen to explore dining options so far from home. So we head back to Nahagama Tavern for dinner! It’s freezing outside, so the packed room and hazy smoke from the charcoal barbecue, feels like a warm embrace. The waitress remembers us from yesterday and is quick to bring over drinks. And more fried chicken and cabbage salad, I could live on this!!

Our last morning, we spend at the Cup Noodle Museum.

We leave Mr T with the luggage at the hotel. Then, we take off on a train ride to Ikeda, the birthplace of instant noodles. While I am not usually a fan of these convenience snacks, I do like a good success story, especially when food is concerned. This one is a beauty! 

Cup Noodles are the brainchild of Momofuku Ando (1910-2007), creator of the world’s first instant noodles, Chicken Ramen.

The instant noodle idea was born from necessity. Japan needed affordable sustenance options after WWII. Ando developed the world’s first instant noodles in his hometown of Ikeda in Osaka Prefecture. 

In 1958, using the tools in his little shed and through a process of trial and error, he successfully developed the entire production method of flash-frying the noodles, from noodle-making to steaming, seasoning, and dehydrating in oil heat. Not only were the instant noodles ready to eat in two minutes by adding boiling water, the dried noodle blocks–nicknamed “magic ramen”–had a long shelf life that exceeded that of frozen noodles. It was revolutionary, to say the least.

By 1971 Ando created an iconic food item, the Cup Noodles, ready to eat in just three minutes by cooking it in its own container. The inspiration came from his trip to the US in 1966. He went there to investigate the possibility of expanding sales of Chicken Ramen overseas. He observed how Americans were eating the noodles in a cup with a fork. This observation helped him figure out a way to adapt to a global market. He added convenience to an already successful product. Cup Noodles revolutionized the food industry. The Styrofoam cup combined three functions: a packaging material, a cooking container, and an eating vessel itself. This was made possible by suspending the flash-fried noodles halfway in the upright Styrofoam container. This setup allows hot water to circulate thoroughly from below. As a result, the noodles cook evenly.

Ando had a long-held dream. He wanted to invent a ramen that can be eaten in space. He started work on Space Ramen in the 1980s. A culmination of a variety of techniques for eating in weightless environments, Space Ramen is based on the hot oil instant drying method that Ando invented in 1958. In 2005, with Space Ramen, Ando’s creative thinking transcended the bounds of Earth. He created food that people can eat even in space. 

The story of Ando, his creations and innovations are displayed thru various exhibits and attractions in the museum. What a fun place it is! Starting with a replica of Ando’s first working shed, to the Cup Noodle tunnel showcasing 800 product packages sold globally, and the Drama Theater showing interactive displays ( audio guide in English available )… there is so much to learn.

But our favourite, by far, is the My CupNoodle Factory. It is the Japanese version of a Gingerbread House workshop! Here you can create your own completely original CUPNOODLES package. You design a cup, select your favorite soup from four varieties, and choose four toppings from 12 ingredients. Altogether, there are 5,460 flavour combinations. Then experience the importance of ‘turning things around’ firsthand. Your package is then packed in a giant bubble for safe transport.

Imagine Mr T’s face when we returned to the hotel with our extra load. 

Osaka is as big and busy as Tokyo. The expanded complex of Umeda/Osaka Station rivals Tokyo’s Shinjuku Station in both scale and passenger flow. We found however that locals seem more laid back and friendly, accomodation is cheaper, and the street food sublime. Dare I say that Osaka is a more down to earth and gritty version of the Capital City?