This Arctic Road Trip took place in June-July 2023
Have you ever thought of driving from Paris to Nordkapp, above the Arctic Circle?
Nordkapp sits at the tip of Norway and mainland Europe. It is the northernmost point reachable by road at 71deg 10’21” N
It has been on our bucket list of destinations, along with Scandinavia, for decades. Once we planned to sail there on our own yacht, when the children were young, but we didn’t make it past the Channel Islands. Then we thought we’d tour with the GX, but it was too complicated to ship it over. Last year, we flew over to France for an extended family holiday which included enough spare time for Mr T and I to go exploring. So we jumped at the opportunity to drive around in a rental, exploring Northern Europe at a leisurely pace ( by Australian standards, that is 6-8 hours drive a day !) Being in the northern summer, we called this Arctic Circle road trip, In Pursuit of the Midnight Sun.
The 4-weeks road trip was to be split between the 5-days forward journey from Paris to Oslo, via Germany, Denmark and Sweden, a 9-days return drive from Nordkapp to Paris via Finland, Sweden, Germany and Switzerland, with the Norwegian section taking 17 days.
I have already posted snippets on Instagram and Facebook, as connection allowed at the time. This post is the first of a series detailing specific details of the trip, not only for our own memory sake, but also to provide practical information for anyone who might be interested in a similar voyage above the Arctic Circle. Please note, this is not a sponsored post, all services were paid for.
Why drive to Nordkapp?
Sounds crazy, right? Incredibly long distances, endless hours on the road … only mad people like us would find this exciting in a road trip. For most people, it would make more sense to fly. I guess we’re crazy, finding the prospect of 24 hour sunlight and warm weather too great a temptation to hit the road.
However, in our case, we already had a vehicle hired on a long term lease, as we were staying in France for over 3 months. Organised in advance from Australia thru Auto Europe, the daily rate worked out half the cost of hiring a car thru the major rentals, including insurance. It also allowed us to drive thru most of Europe. Our Peugeot 3008 was probably an overkill in cities ( parking is a challenge in most European capitals ) but proved very comfortable driving and spacious enough for our travelling paraphernalia ( we are not light travellers ).
How did we organise the Norway itinerary?
I am used to do my own research and bookings, but Norway was a challenge. So many options to choose from, distances and times to consider, as well as language issues… I found myself wishing I knew locals who could point me in the right direction. Enter, Up Norway, a local travel curator, I heard of from a travel podcast. The process was simple: tell them your dates of travel, your likes and dislikes, what you’re hoping to find in Norway and your budget and they come up with an itinerary tailored just for you. We were looking for scenic drives, adventure, food discoveries, local gems… and they came up with the ideal holiday for us, including a digital guide I referred to daily. While their service isn’t cheap, it was well worth it, recommending places and experiences we would never have known or considered without them.
How did we organise the rest of the trip?
First of all, I subscribe to online travel mags and podcasts like CN Traveller, Yolo or Zero to Travel for inspiration. They feed my brain with ideas and destinations, filling up an ever expanding mood board.
Because the prize destination was Norway, our focus was on highway driving thru countries rather than sightseeing. I looked for stopovers within a 600-700km driving range or 7-8 hour drive time , whichever worked out best. A little bit like throwing a dart on a map! Then researching TripAdvisor and Bookings.com for available accomodations and possible deals.
Generally, we are aiming for midrange accomodation, including or close to a restaurant, a car park and preferably in a scenic location ( even if staying overnight, we like to wander around ). If possible, I like to book the hotel directly, for a more personal touch ( I know they appreciate bypassing the commission and I also get the vibes of the place over the phone ). From busy business hotels in Germany, to quaint chalets in France, a rough cabin on a Swedish ferry and cozy lodges in Norway, we have stayed in all kinds of accommodation!
How far in advance did we book?
I first enquired with Up Norway before Easter, not realising that this is a major holiday and the team had taken a 10-day break. By the time we connected mid-April and finalised the itinerary a month later, it was 6 weeks before our June departure. Cutting it fine for finding availability but obviously do-able. My advice would be to allow at least 3 months planning.
The rest of the road trip was surprisingly easy to book on the go. Generally a week ahead was enough, even 2 or 3 days in larger centres like Germany.
Practically it has meant:
Day 1: Paris – Osnabrück ( Germany ) 695klm/7.5 hours
Day 2: Osnabrück – Copenhagen ( Denmark ) 690klm / 7h15mn
Day 3: Copenhagen rest day
Day 4: Copenhagen – Oslo ( Norway ) via Sweden 615klm / 6h45mn )
Day 5 to Day 20: Oslo – Nordkapp
Day 21: Nordkapp – Enontekiö ( Finland ) 445km/6h30mn
Day 22: Enontekiö – Sundsvall ( Sweden ) 950klm/11 hours
Day 23: Sundsvall – Malmo (Sweden) 990klm / 10h30mn
Overnight: Malmo – Travelmunde ( Germany ) by ferry 9h
Day 24: Travelmunde – Rothenburg ob der Tauber (Germany) 640klm/6h30mn
Day 25: RODT rest day
Day 26: RODT – Interlaken (Switzerland): 490klm / 5h30mn
Day 27: Interlaken – Morzine ( France ): 225klm/ 3h
Day 28: Morzine rest day
Day 29: Morzine – Paris: 575klm / 6h
The Stats
28 days
9988 kilometers
9 countries
The Route
We’re back!
After 6 months sitting in our driveway, while we headed off to Europe, the GX was finally let loose. I conjured a foodie excuse to have dinner in Brunswick Heads, in northern NSW. It led to an 8 days meandering loop. From the lush Byron Bay Hinterland onto the Rainforest Way south to The Clarence River Gorge, and a detour to the beach in Minnie Water.
Nothing too challenging for the truck though. As usual, it was the main attraction in camps with people, dingos and cows!
Finding a free camp in NSW is becoming increasingly difficult, especially along the coast or close to towns. In the past, we have looked for out-of-the-way rest areas or hospitable pubs, but this time around we settled for paid camps with a mix of very pricey holiday parks and great value camps in NSW national parks. This was not quite the remote adventure of last year, but still a fun road trip full of spectacular scenery, historical references and food discoveries.
Let me take you thru some of the highlights of our NSW road trip.
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Planning a gourmet road trip to Victoria’s High Country, including wine tasting, dining in a hatted restaurant and a free RV camp nearby, where to rest your head after a long lunch? Look no further than Brown Brothers Winery and Restaurant in Milawa.
The history of Brown Brothers wines goes back to 1885, when a young John Francis Brown planted 10 acres of Riesling, Muscat and Shiraz grapes on the family property at Milawa in the King River Valley. Thus started one of Australia’s largest and oldest privately owned wine companies.
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I know, I know…we’ve all had plenty of chocolate cakes in our lives. They are possibly our family favourite desserts and a standard celebratory dessert.
We had a family birthday recently and I was asked to make a low key dinner, including the dessert. Apparently birthdays are overrated when you’re a young adult…no need for big parties, cakes, songs or candles. Sigh!
So we had home made burgers that I tasked one of our guest into grilling, hot chips from the local takeaway shop, ready-to-cook buffalo wings, creamy coleslaw brought by another of our guests, all in the spirit of effortless cooking. As the hostess, I provided all the burgers ingredients and toppings as well as a generous help of cut fruits, for good measure.
This left me with plenty of time to bake the cake. I decided on a flourless cake, as we have been experimenting with nut flours lately. Usually, almond flour is my go-to substitute, but lately I have discovered pecan flour and thought I’d add some to the mix for extra nuttiness.
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Come along for a four-day scenic escape to regional NSW, filled with pie tastings, country hospitality, adventurous driving and fascinating history along the way.
Our first road trip of 2023 is a random one.
Triggered by restlessness, after a very quiet COVID affected festive period, Mr T decided to take advantage of a favourable weather window to head out for 3 days in the GX. Where to? No ideas, we’ll decide once on the road. Let’s just follow the sun, as we used to in our cruising days.
So, we’re heading south, on the Princes Highway, along with the holiday traffic. It’s not long before we reach Wollongong and being lunch time, we decide to take the turn off to Robertson for pies. Pie tasting while on the road is a bit of a tradition, and we never miss an opportunity.
Especially when you come across a sign advertising “Welcome to the Famous Robertson Pie shop “. Mr T always orders a curry beef pie, while I play around with chunky beef versions, in this instance, Boeuf Bourguignon. While the pastry is a little dry, the filling is yummy, full of tender beef chunks and a lovely red wine sauce.
It’s a popular spot, with lots of families, biking groups and truckies queuing along.
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