Sausage rolls. Need I say more? It is Terry’s and the kids’ favourite food, and unfortunately for them since we switched to a paleo style diet, it disappeared from the menu. Because, you know, pastry is supposed to be out…
Until I came up with a paleo friendly version which opened all sorts of possibilities and Anne then begged for these Beef and Thyme sausage rolls she read about in Pete Evans Lunch Box ( I know she is serious when she snatches my cookbooks and returns them with dog earmarked pages! )
I must admit, there is a lot to love about these little morsels: the pastry is a cinch to make, so is the filling. They don’t look particularly pretty but they taste delicious and I like the fact that there is no “fillers” inside, it is just meat and vegetables ( which can be left out if vegetables are not your thing ). And most importantly, these will keep in the fridge for a few days kept in an airtight container, or can be frozen uncooked for up to 3 months. This means that they are perfect for lunch boxes ( Ask Pete Evans ) or batch cooking, as I have been doing in the past few weeks.
Since we’ve acquired our little plane, Mr T and I have been out flying whenever the opportunity arises. So far, the trips have been short and limited to week days due to weekend commitments. I like to think that we’re practising for a big adventure later in the year. Though it won’t be as grand and long as our previous sailing voyages, we’re still excited to go on a flying safari ( just saying the words gives me the bumps! ) Preparations are in full swings, destination research and flying practise take up most of our time, pretty much like planning an ocean crossing did. Except that instead of provisioning a boat, I am now provisioning my own house, knowing that Marc and Anne will remain home for a few weeks. Don’t be concerned, they are old enough to look after themselves, one is a 9th grader, the other is working. And we are lucky enough to have family around for support and a dog for company. As long as I make sure the freezer is full of these sausage rolls, they’ll be fine.
Beef and Thyme Sausage Rolls
Adapted from Pete Evans Lunch Box
Makes 24 small rolls ( snack size )
A batch of paleo pastry
1/3 cup of olive oil, butter or other animal fat, melted
2 onions chopped
4 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tsp finely chopped thyme
700g beef mince ( or a mix of beef and pork if desired )
100g grated carrots
2 tsp dijon mustard
2 tbsp tomato ketchup ( Pete says homemade, but I used Heinz so technically it is not Paleo )
2 tsp sea salt
2 tbsp parsley, chopped
1tsp ground black pepper
a pinch of salt
- Make the egg wash: whisk the egg, salt and a tbsp pf water in a small bowl. Set aside
Pre-heat the oven to 220C. Line the baking tray with baking papers.
- Heat 2 tbsp of the fat in a frying pan, add the onion and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until translucent.Add the garlic, thyme and cook for another minute. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
- In the bowl of a food processor, combine the remaining fat with the mince, carrots, eggs, mustard, tomato ketchup and salt. Pulse a few times to combine. Add the parsley, pepper and cooled onion mixture with any extra fat from the pan, and pulse a few more times to form a paste. If you do not have a food processor, you can of course mix it all by hand in a large bowl until it becomes squishy between your fingers ( that was my method on the boat, where my food processor wasn’t big enough for large batches )
Divide the mixture into 4 even portions and set aside to chill
- In the meantime, divide the batch of paleo pastry into 4 sheets. Place one sheet on some baking paper with the long sides facing you. Pipe one portion of the sausage mix along the long side, at a thickness of approx 4 cm leaving a 1cm gap along the edge. Brush the pastry lightly with egg wash and starting with the edge closest to you, roll up with the help of the baking paper to enclose the filling. When done, carefully peel away the baking paper and turn the roll so that the seam is underneath. Transfer to the prepared tray. Re[eat with the other 3 pastry sheets and remaining sausage mixture. Brush the top of the rolls with the rest of the egg wash.
- Bake for 10 minutes, then rotate the trays and bake for another 10 minutes or until the pastry is golden ( I also use a metal skewer to test that the meat is well cooked inside ). Allow to stand for 5 minutes before cutting into 4 small sausage rolls ( or 12 larger ones if you prefer ). The kids like them served with tomato ketchup, I prefer a more gourmet tomato relish, but each to their own.
Sometime last year, I mentioned a new project Mr T and I embarked on, involving flying a light airplane. There wasn’t much to report at the time, mostly because we were busy studying and bringing the qualifications up to speed ( that’s for him ) and getting familiar with the new jargon and skill sets ( that’s for me ). After a few practise day trips around country NSW, things came to a halt for a while ( like life…you know…) Until Mr T finally obtained his Instrument Rating which means we could fly in any conditions. So, on one of these rare free weekends ( he usually is busy skippering fishing boats ) , we grabbed the opportunity to dust the airplane out of the hangar and took off ( literally ).
Destination was Coffs Harbour, on the NSW mid north coast. We know the town well, having stopped there several times during our cruising days, seeking shelter in the inner harbour. It is also an Australian port of entry, used by many yachts to clear into the country after a Pacific crossing. We were one of these, 10 years go, limping into the harbour’s marina after a harrowing 7 day passage from New Caledonia. The initial plan had been to proudly sail into Sydney Harbour after a 3 year navigation from Europe, as it was to be our last ocean crossing. However, 2 days out of Noumea we were hit by a massive storm cell and battered by 60 knots winds we ended up diverting to Coffs Harbour. The kids jumped and kissed the ground that day, greeted by Australian Customs and Quarantine officers, who shook their heads trying to figure out if we were either brave or stupid.
That was then. We have been back a few times since, visiting Mr T’s sister and her family or stopping overnight on the way to Queensland. Somehow though it’s alway felt like a passing visit through this wonderful holiday spot, tucked between mountain ranges and sandy beaches.
This time we are flying in, hoping to find time to explore the region a little while catching up with family. Anne is coming along, keen for a break though she is packing her school bag as she has assignments to work on.
The flight from Bankstown Airport takes 90 minutes. It is a beautiful day and we are blessed with gorgeous uninterrupted views of the coast all the way. Mr T lands us perfectly at Coffs Harbour Regional Airport, parking in the General Aviation area, opposite the Aeroclub. A quick phone call to Geoff, from Avis, ensures we’re being picked up to collect our rental car and within 1/2 h from landing we’re settled at our accomodation, the Observatory Holiday Apartments.
Ours is a 2 bedroom apartment, with a spacious lounge and dining area, basic kitchen but since we don’t plan to cook much, it’s plenty adequate. There is a balcony overlooking the train station directly below, which concerns me initially but looking beyond is the harbour framed by the Esplanade, Mutton Island Nature Reserve and Corambirra Point. This view will turn out to be the reason for me to get up at 5am, not to miss the sunrise!! And the train noise I was fearing was inexistent ( maybe they didn’t run that weekend or I slept thru it, not sure )
Emily, at reception is full of advice as to where to eat, what to do and mentions that we are within walking distance from the restaurant precinct. But whenever we holiday in small towns, we’re used to drive everywhere so we hop in the car anyway and find a dozen restaurants within one block! We decide to leave the car parked in the street and indeed walk the 3 minutes it took to reach Element Bar for dinner.
Located on Harbour Drive, this place seems to be where Coffs people go on a friday night. It is 6.30pm, all tables are taken or booked and we end up sitting on a low lounge beside a coffee table.
While not as comfortable as we’d like, we’re taken by the menu, full of our favourites:
buffalo chicken wings, sweet potato fries,
and bourbon braised beef ribs. Obviously we are ditching the paleo diet this weekend. Washed down with Coopers on tap, Mr T is happy! The food is super tasty, servings are so huge the 3 of us can’t possibly finish our meal and end up bringing leftover back to the apartment ( Anne can vouch for chicken wings and sweet potato fries for breakfast !)
We wake up the next morning to a glorious sunrise, skip breakfast still full from dinner and leave Anne to her schoolwork while we visit Mr T’s sister, Judy, who leaves in Boambee, a few kilometres south of Coffs. Over coffee and fruit cake, we chat and organise to go to dinner later on. When Judy casually mentions that the Growers Market in Bellingen is on, I quickly check out the time and drag ourselves on the road before the markets close.
It is a 30 minutes drive to Bellingen, a town of 3000 people renown for its mix of hippies and farmers. It is said to attract these after an alternative lifestyle, a concept totally lost on Mr T whose interest I manage to pick by the mention of bountiful food to be found. Fertile soil and semi tropical climate combine to form the ideal environment for growing organic produce, and most are sold at the colourful market.
There are a few fresh produce stalls, but what draw our attention are the exotic teas and spices. Having suffered bouts of illness lately, we’re keen on restoring health thru food rather than medication so anything boasting antioxidants or anti-inflammatory properties catches our eye.
Like this pre-mixed turmeric tea, made of a combination of turmeric, ginger, cinnamon, black pepper and shredded coconut.
Or that Blue Tea made of butterfly pea flowers. Whether these work or not is up for debate, Mr T swears by the turmeric, I just love the colour of blue tea.
Then we’re lured by the aromas of the curries prepared by the girls at Off The Rayles, offering pre-packed curry spice mixes ( of course, we could make our own, but these little pouches will come in handy when we want curry in a hurry!).
Likewise with the Bengal chutney and macadamia nut butter found at Jenny’s Kitchen.
While I browse for a while, purchasing goat’s milk soap here, feeling silk dresses there, Mr T is busy on his phone trying to locate an old friend of his, Keith, he used to fly with. Both pilots, Keith and Mr T used to own and run an aerial promotions business in the mid 1960s, performing aerobatics shows, stunt flying and sky writing. One went on to become an acclaimed flying instructor, the other to run an aviation charter business, and the last time we saw Keith and his wife Dianne was 30 years ago while driving thru Coffs. We left messages at the Aeroclub if anyone knew of his whereabouts, honestly not holding much hope of finding him. Then, lo and behold, after much searching on the internet, Terry found his number in the White Pages ( remember these??), called and arranged for us to visit them at their house nearby.
That was quite an emotional visit, watching these 2 flying legends reminiscing about the antics they used to get up to. Time marches on all of us, and sadly Keith can no longer fly, but he can still instruct from the ground, he says. We part ways, Mr T promising to do a flyover on our way back and already planning a return visit hopefully sooner than in 30 years!
We make it back to the apartment, in time to get changed, enjoy a pre-dinner drink and pick up Anne who made most of the day studying. Dinner is at Latitude 30, joined by Judy, her daughter Kim and husband Derek. The restaurant is a local’s favourite, overlooking the harbour and features local seafood ( of course! ).
While Kim and Derek ponder whether to order the seafood platter again ( they’re regulars here ), Mr T and I decide to order from the tapas/share plate/ entree menu rather than the mains. Too much snacking on fruit cakes and biscuits during the day, unfortunately mean a much reduced appetite. Darn!
We order an oyster platter to share: fresh from Nambucca Head, they are a mix of natural with a shallots and sherry vinegar dressing, japanese topped with pickled ginger and mirin vinegar dressing, kilpatrick with streaky bacon, tamarind and black pepper caramel sauce and finally crumbed with wasabi aioli and fish roe.
I can’t go past the soft shell baby mud crab. It comes crumbed and deep fried, with a thai chili cucumber salad. Unlike the oyster platter, I don’t have to share, as I am the only one partial to soft shell crab.
Mr T loves his plate of seared scallops, topped with toasted almonds on a bed of romesco sauce.
Anne completely eschews her low carb diet and orders the spanish seafood paella. It is a signature dish and comes piled with prawns, mussels, salmon, scallops, octopus and chorizo atop safron rice. She loves it and tries her hardest to eat it all, but admits defeat and offers the mussels and some rice for Mr T and I to finish. We graciously accept, as we’re somehow still peckish and realise we could have at least ordered a side dish to share.
Both Anne and Mr T fix this conundrum later on by stopping for ice cream at the Cold Rock Ice Creamery on the way back to the apartment. Not the gourmet ending to the day I was hoping for, a happy one nevertheless.
I set up our alarm early enough to wake up way before sunrise the next day, as I plan to take a walk down the jetty and hopefully take decent photos of the sun rising. It’s a slow and painful start out of bed but once out the door we’re glad to be walking off last night’s libations. The walk to the Esplanade and jetty only takes 10 minutes and I notice half a dozen people also setting up with tripods on the beach waiting for the sunrise like me.
It is a popular spot for photos, and while we wait for the light, we watch trawlers motor out of the harbour, people climbing up Muttonbird island for early exercise, cruising yachts bobbing on their moorings waking up to the day,…It brings back memories of cruising friends tying to these same moorings years ago, waiting for clearance and Coffs Harbour becoming their first taste of Australia. If they read this post, they will know who they are.
By 7am, the sun is well and truly up and you’ll never guess what is setting up on our way back to the apartment. Another growers market at the Jetty!
This time I do buy fresh produce to take home on the plane, mostly avocados and bananas. And because we’re quite hungry this morning and don’t feel like cereals ( we always bring them as emergency rations ), we order a thai breakfast at a little stall who is just unpacking but somehow manages to cook samosas, fried rice and omelette in no time for us to take back.
The rest of the morning is spent leisurely packing ( it is Sunday after all ), and with a few hours up our sleeve before the flight home, we decide to be real tourists and drive inland to the Forest Sky Pier lookout, then become hopelessly lost in the rainforest trying to find a way north other than on the highway. I must say being lost here isn’t that unpleasant and it is quite a scenic drive thru green meadows, under tree canopies and past road signs to wineries or honey farms.
We drive as far as Woolgoolga, recognisable by its large Indian temple on the side of the road. Sikhs from north west india are said to have settled here in the early 1900’s, after arriving in Australia to work in the Queensland cane fields. The milder climate in Coffs Harbour was apparently more attractive and they found work banana farming. Today’s indian population is descendants from these early settlers and reported to make up 25% of the local population. This would explain the unusually high number of indian restaurants all over town. Not that we are in for an indian lunch. After driving to the headland and taking in the fabulous view over the golden beaches, I manage to convince Mr T to make one last lunch stop on the promise it will be a light one.
Quickly thinking on my feet, I spot what look a popular choice, Blue Bottles Brasserie, across from the caravan park. We quickly grab the one remaining table available and glance at the menu, looking for the lightest item we can find. Mr T orders the Lost Little Piggy, a version of bacon and egg roll which is anything but light as it comes with 2 fried eggs, a pile of bacon and house tomato relish on turkish bread. “Beside a bowl of fries, it was the cheapest meal on the menu, I thought it would be small “ he said.
Anne, still on a carb roll orders the Tipsy Fish Flathead, beer battered fish with a substantial amount of chips. There is salad too, but that does not compare with the chips and the mango smoothie.
As for me, I feel virtuous and choose the Seared Scallop salad with greens, seaweed, pickled ginger, beansprouts in japanese dressing. At least one of us stuck to the brief!
I think one of the things I love the most about these country road trips, is the lack of traffic and the ease it takes to drive from one location to another. The mid north coast is no exception, as the 30 kilometers drive back to the airport was a breeze on the highway. Dropping off Mr T and Anne at the plane first ( no formalities ), I returned the rental car at the main airport dropping the keys in a box, getting a lift back from the lovely lady ( whose name escapes me ) and voila. By 3pm, we were back in the air, Sydney bound.
A little while ago, I posted a photo of a bunch of wild greens on my Instagram feed.
I had just returned from a morning shopping at my local Farmer’s market in Ramsgate with a friend, Diana and while the original intent was to purchase spices and nuts, I came across this organic vegetable stall selling leaves I had not seen before: amaranth, milk thistle and red dandelion. Diana is a vegetarian, so assuming she would know her veggies better than me, I asked her what to do with them. The look on her face said it all ( aka “No Idea !” ) and never to back down from a challenge, I decided to buy all the bunches I could fit into my basket and carry out wild green experiments. I promised Diana to report back.
For some reason, wild greens make me think of foraging and picking weeds from the backyard. Mr T frowned at the sight of all these leaves, mentioning stinging nettles and other unpleasant plants but I reminded him of the time years ago when we were cruising around Corsica, and while hiking with the kids I ran into an old local lady who was collecting wild asparagus on the side of a hill. She was kind enough to take me along and show me how to recognise what looked to me like tiny green twigs, pluck them gently and share her simple recipe of wild asparagus omelette. It was absolutely delicious, even Terry said so. And thus started my interest in wild greens…
Over the years, I found it best to keep the cooking of green leaves as simple as possible, in order to retain the colours vibrant and the flavours fresh. Having said that, some greens tend to be bitter and do benefit from the addition of other elements to offset the bitterness.
On the scale of bitterness, amaranth and milk thistle rate pretty mildly on par with watercress in my book, red dandelion however is way up there especially when you dress it with vinegar or lemon juice as I did ( a mistake I am sure not to repeat!).
The following dishes are inspired by our past travels in the Mediterranean, particularly the Greek islands. There was not a single meal that didn’t include “horta”, a platter of boiled wild greens reported to be beneficial to your health and an essential part of the Crete diet, simply dressed with lemon juice and olive oil.
Boiled greens is the simplest dish you could ever make to accompany meat, chicken or fish. The wild green pie is an ideal way to use up big bunches of leaves, as they wilt during the cooking process and taste amazing when combined with halloumi and currants. Traditionally the pie crust would be made of puff pastry or even phyllo but here I have substituted a paleo friendly nut pastry to satisfy these of us on carb and gluten -free diet. With Easter coming up soon I guess you could say it is this year’s take on the Easter Pie I made last year.
Horta or Boiled Greens
Horta literally means grass in Greek, as in weeds not lawn! Any green leaves can be used for this dish: spinach, fennel, amaranth, dandelion, beetroot, rocket, silverbeet…I used milk thistle. Don’t be scared of the amount of leaves used, they boil down to next to nothing ! I like to make a big batch so I can have leftovers ( they taste delicious cold splashed with EVO and salt flakes, and not so bitter once cooked ).
Serves 4, as a side dish
1 large bunch of milk thistle ( about 1 kg )
Enough water to cover the greens
Juice of 1/2 lemon
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
- Bring water to the boil. Clean the milk thistle of any dirt and wilted leaves. Trim the stalks, and cut into manageable pieces ( do not chop ! ). Boil the greens for 15minutes or so, until they are soft and tender ( not mushy )/
- Lift the greens and drop them into iced water to stop the cooking and retain the bright green colour.
- Drain and serve dressed with olive oil and lemon juice, seasoned with salt and pepper.
Wild Green Pie
While the pastry is paleo-ish ( adapted from Pete Evans’ Lunch Box, but i used butter instead of lard ) ), the filling is not so much using halloumi cheese and currants. You need them to offset the slight bitterness of the dandelion ( unlike you like bitter of course !)
Serves 4-6 as a main
150g almond meal
100g coconut flour
80 tapioca flour
25g psyllium husks
1 tsp salt
240g cold butter, cut into small cubes
125 ml ice cold water
2 tsp apple cider vinegar
2 bunches of mixed greens ( I used red dandelion and amaranth )
2 brown onions, peeled and finely chopped
300 halloumi cheese, crumbled
3 eggs, beaten
1 tbsp dried oregano
3 tbsp chopped mint
3 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp dried currants
salt and pepper
- For the pastry: Combine the first 5 ingredients in a large bowl. Add the butter and gently rub with your finger tips until evenly blended ( if you want to keep you hands clean, pulse in a food processor until the mixture resembles crumbs. Then transfer to large bowl ). In a separate bowl, mix eggs, water and vinegar. Pour over the dry ingredients and mix well to form a soft and sticky dough. Turn out onto a clean work surface floured with extra tapioca or coconut flour, and gently shape into two even balls.Cover with plastic wrap and chill in the fridge for at least 30 min.
Roll out one pastry ball until 3mm thick. Place in the freezer to firm up for about 20 min.
Repeat with the other ball.
Once firm enough, trim the pastry into round shape large enough to cover a 23cm pie dish.
Cover with plastic wrap and keep in the fridge until ready to use.
- For the filling: Rinse the greens, discarding any yellow or wilted leaves. Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil, out the greens and onions in and simmer for 10 min. Drain and set aside to cool. In the meantime, combine the remaining ingredients in a large bowl. When cool enough, add the greens to the wet mixture and mix well, seasoning with salt and pepper.
- To assemble the pie: Preheat oven to 180C. Lightly oil a 23cm round pie dish. Transfer the greens filling, spreading it evenly. Cover with pastry, tucking in any overhanging bits. Bake for 45 min or until the top is golden. Allow to cool and serve either hot or cold, sliced in wedges.
When we organise family holidays, Mr T and I have a deal: it can’t all be about food and wine.
He loves to drive and sightsee, add a daily walk in the mix and he’s happy. Back in our boating days, he wouldn’t care where we ended up, as long as it involved some kind of crossing and navigation planning. Being on the move is what drives him. Similarly, Anne looks forward to do something different everyday, be it catching a train to the city, go to the movies or visiting friends.
So, for this Tasmanian trip, I told them there would be a hike everyday, selected not only for them, but also to wear off all the food I was planning on sampling.
This is our second day, and I am looking forward to today’s hike in Cradle Mountain National Park.
The plan is to drive from Launceston to Cradle Mountain, stopping at Sheffield along the way, do at least one hike, fit in lunch and keep driving to Tullah, our overnight accomodation. On paper it looks totally doable: 190 klm, 2h30mn driving time according to Google Map. However, I have been told by a local lady it would be a pretty full on day and to plan accordingly.
I am so excited, I wake everyone really early to hit the road shortly after dawn, much to Anne’s displeasure who was hoping for a lazy hotel breakfast. I promise to make it up to her later in the morning while packing the complimentary chocolate truffles, just in case.
It is an easy drive to Sheffield, traffic is by Sydney standard non existent which allows Mr T to drive much faster than I’d like. Not that he is speeding, but the roadside is peppered with signs advertising a rasberry farm here, a Cheese factory there, the Truffledore, a fish farm, a winery…For someone who skipped breakfast, the temptation to stop is overwhelming. But Mr T is reminding me that we have places to go before sunset, so we stick to the plan and keep going.
We make it to Sheffield by mid-morning, first paying a visit to the Kentish Visitors Centre. The staff there is very welcoming and friendly, obviously proud to show what is known as The Town of Murals. Going back to the mid1980’s, the town decided to develop a tourist attraction which would be “ an outdoor art gallery depicting the pioneering history of the district and its people”. There are now 60 or more murals displayed within Sheffield where an International Mural Fest Competition is held annually, with 9 artists competing to each paint a mural in just one week. The pieces remain on display in Mural Park for 12 months after which the winner of the “paint-off” is added to the collection. We only had time to visit last year’s display in Mural Park and walked around the town’s main streets: genres are eclectic, some recording the history of the town, others more artistic and modern. It reminded me of a large painting that Terry’s older daughter did in year 8, featuring our boat sailing around tropical islands, palm trees and exotic birds…I think it would not have been out of place in Sheffield, Tasmania!
The visitor’s centre is full of information about the local area and this is also where you can purchase a National Parks Pass. When we mention our plan to visit a few of the National Parks during the week, we’re advised to go for the Holidays Vehicle Parks Pass which allows entry for the car and up to 8 passengers to all national parks during 2 months.
By the time we leave the centre, loaded with brochures and maps, our tummies are grumbling and we set out to look for a late breakfast /early lunch. The choice is wide, but we can’t go past Bossimis Bakery, advertising Tassie Scallop pie. Tasmanian Scallops are Mr T’s food obsession, and he has made it his mission to eat as many as possible during this trip.
The pie crust is standard flaky on top and short on the bottom, but the filling is a decadent mix of 5 scallops with roe on and small chunks of vegetables in a creamy curry sauce. Not bad for a snack! Anne opts for a meat pie as that is her favourite treat, she is back smiling and ready for the next drive.
It takes nearly 1 hour to reach Cradle Mountain NP and it seems cars and buses come out of nowhere, as we’re caught in traffic, shown to an “overflow” carpark because the park is so busy, access to Dove Lake is by Shuttle service only. Luckily, the shuttles run every 5-10 minutes between the Visitors Centre and Dove Lake, so we don’t have to wait very long. Still, we’re amazed by the number of tourists, some look like serious hikers setting off for a few days on the Overland Track, others are day visitors like us, equipped with not much else than running shoes and a camera.
Talking of camera, I start snapping away as soon as we arrive, telling Anne and Mr T to walk ahead as I know they can’t stand crowds.
The hike of the day is Dove Lake Circuit, which is arguably Tasmania’s most popular walk and with good reasons: 6 klm return, the track is suitable for most ages, being level most of the time with only gentle hills and very few steps. It can take up to 2 hours hiking on this incredibly well maintained path, taking you thru rainforests, along quartzite beaches, with lots of resting areas where people can sit and picnic. It is perfect to enjoy the spectacular view of Cradle Mountain peaks looming over the track except that in my case I hardly stop because I am trying to catch up with my team.
I didn’t think I stayed behind that long, and expect to meet Anne and Mr T only a few meters along the path. Only I can’t find them and by the time I realise that I might have missed them and ended up ahead, I have reached the half way point. Tossing between waiting for them here or having them waiting for me at the end. I choose to keep going, figuring that we’d all end up in the car park eventually. So, I am going against all “walk safely “ advice and walk alone, tell no one where I am or where I am going ( there is no phone coverage anyway ), stop just long enough to take a few photos and carry no water. But I manage to finish the hike in 1h20mn, check the Walkers Log book to find the others are not here and wait. Not long, they’re 10 minutes behind me, as they also have walked non stop. We have a bit of a row “ where were you? “ “ did you really think we’d leave you behind with no water? “ but all is good in the end. It turns out that Mr T had stopped at Glacier Rock, only 10mn into the walk. It is accessible thru a gate, and popular with people who want to have a great view of the lake and the mountains without venturing further. He figured I would want to stop there for photos. I did, but as I could see dozens of people crowding the top of the rock already, I never imagined agoraphobic Mr T would join them and wait for me there. So here we are, knowing each other so well we didn’t expect either of us to do the unexpected.
I suggest going back quickly to Glacier Rock for a family photo, but after all the rush and frustration, neither of them are in the mood for a group selfie.
On the more positive side, Anne gives the walk the thumbs up for scenic value and easy grade. And because I had allowed 3 hours including lengthy photo breaks, we now find ourselves ahead of schedule.
Just as well, because the 45 klm to Tullah take over 1 hour on narrow winding roads. The Peppers’ chocolate truffles came in handy as a substitute lunch and by the time we arrive at Tullah Lakeside Lodge at 4.30pm, we are ravenous.
But first, checking in: the location is very pretty, by the shore of Rosebery lake. The main building houses the restaurant, bar and kitchen, a small games alley and overlooks a large patch of grass with a giant game of chess, outdoor furniture and even a helicopter pad! The staff is quite friendly and hospitable, sharing bar and office duties it seems.
I must say that after the luxury of Peppers in Launceston the night before, I am feeling underwhelmed with our accomodation tonight. Admittedly the room rate is much lower but it feels like we are staying in a kids summer camp or a workers camp ( which it could easily have been ) with rooms lined in long narrow dongas ( australian term for a transportable tin building ), facing onto the courtyard and the adjoining donga. Ours is a Standard room, so no view of the lake, it is quite large with a queen and a single bed, but fairly basic, a very small bathroom ( original ) and fridge area. Still, it is clean, has a large TV, tea/coffee facilities and the beds are comfortable. It’s all we need for a good night sleep.
The restaurant is a pleasant surprise: after the indulgence of Stillwater, we are happy to go back to basic pub food. Servings are large and prices are reasonable. Mr T can’t help himself and orders crumbed scallops just to taste! What he really looks forward is the Tasmanian T-bone steak which he still raves about as I write this, saying it was the most flavoursome and tender beef he had in a long time. Anne chose the Chicken Parmigiana, which comes out as a massive portion as does my plate of baby back ribs. It is very much a stick to your ribs kind of meal, just what we wanted after the hike and the drive and we eat it all up!
Looking around, the dining room is filled with hikers and workers alike, all chatting about their day the same way we’re planning ours tomorrow: more driving and more hiking to come yet!