Autumn is the best time to visit Margaret River region in Western Australia. Famous for its stunning landscapes and surfing beaches, this stretch between Cape Leuwinn and Cape Naturaliste offers world-class wineries and restaurants. There is so much to see and do. Spending a week in the area last year was a highlight of our WA road trip! Come along for a memorable adventure when we celebrate the good things in life over 7 days.

When we took off for our tour of Western Australia, we gave ourselves plenty of time to meander along the way. Leaving Sydney late February, the idea was to reach Perth by Easter, 5 weeks later. 

Having done an earlier road trip there, we  blitzed thru Victoria and South Australia, with 500km days and judiciously picked overnight camps: outback pubs, lakeside spots and rest areas along these interminable highways. It took us a week to get to Esperance. We could finally rest, give the GX a bit of TLC, and plan the month ahead touring the WA South wedge.

The only items on my list were a week in Margaret River, followed by a few days in Perth. The rest of the itinerary would mostly depend on weather, scenery, accessibility and our mood ( in that order ). We followed the south coast from Esperance to Fremantle, with detours inland to the Stirling Ranges and the southern forests. 

After the sweltering summer heat of the Nullarbor, the weather on the whole south coast of WA was surprisingly cool. Still, the beaches looked stunning and the lower temperature made the hiking easier. 

By the time we reached the Margaret River area, I was looking forward to wining and dining. Mr T and I agreed to a plan.He would be the dedicated driver during the day, as I indulged in wine tasting. Until 5pm, that is. Then, being beer-o-clock, we’d need to be back at camp or close enough. How did we go? Very well indeed. 

Where we stayed:

Gracetown was our base camp, literally. Located only 2 1/2 km from Cowaramup Bay  and 10mn drive from Margaret River township, Gracetown Caravan Park was the perfect location to come home to every day. We would stop at the beach for a late afternoon dip, drop by at the family-owned and run Grace Farm cellar door across the caravan park for a tasting and pick up a bottle of their excellent Chardonnay. Then wander to the GX for a home cooked dinner in the most peaceful bush setting.

Day 1:

From Augusta, the must-do visit is Cape Leuwinn, the most south-westerly point of Australia. It is at the tip of a spectacular peninsula where the Southern and Indian Oceans meet. There stands the tallest lighthouse on mainland Australia. 

From here, the Cape to Cape Track starts. It is a 123km coastal walk trail between the lighthouses at Cape Leuwinn and Cape Naturaliste, traversing the Leuwinn-Naturaliste National Park along the way. Should you be a keen hiker, you can tackle the entire trail in 5-7 days. We prefer driving and stopping at the various access points.

So we head northwards on the scenic Caves Road. Oh what a magical drive! Running parallel to the coast but set inland, it starts with a drive thru the ancient karri forest of Boranup . The Jarrah, Karris and Marris trees are so thick and tall, I ask Mr T to pull over the side of the road to take it all in and grab a few pictures. 

As we head north, the dense browns and deep greens of the karri trees are replaced by the gold and green of open paddocks. There are sweeping vineyards, olive groves, and stone walls leading into winery estates. 

And that’s above ground. Beneath the red soil, lie a network of 150 limestone caves. Only a handful of them are accessible to the public. We stop by Bride Cave, which is only accessible by rope or a caving ladder. A bush fire burnt the entrance gate and top of the stairs years ago, leaving only a gaping hole to peer thru. Needless to say this one is NOT open to tourists.

We check out Gnarabup Beach, south of Prevelly, Margaret River’s most famous surf break. Prevelly hosts the Western Australia Margaret River Pro each year. This is one of only three Australian events on the prestigious World Surf League World Championship Tour when the world’s top professional surfers travel to Margaret River to compete. It happens to be on during our April visit, adding a level of excitement for Mr T. 

The beach is obviously popular with the locals, judging by the number of swimmers, dog walkers and surf vans parked on the headland. The White Elephant Cafe is the only beachfront cafe along the coast, and is doing a roaring trade. When in Rome…we grab a table and enjoy a coffee and a BLT sandwich. The weather is glorious, the beach is almost lagoon-like thanks to the calm waters. Could we have found paradise?

Gracetown is only a 20mn drive north. It is a tiny coastal town with two landmark surf breaks, North Point and South Point. Cowaramup Bay sits between these breaks. In the afternoon, the community gathers on the beach for an after-school/after-work play. Kids clamber on the rocks, mums sit and sip on the shore, while some (including myself) enjoy a few laps in the protected bay. We are looking forward to many sundowners over the water!

Just up the hill to town, the Gracies General Store is handy for supplies. Though small, it is a charming beachside pit stop that offers regional brews and wines, gourmet pies as well as local artisans. 

Day 2:

Today is wine tasting day. With nearly 150 wineries in Margaret River, choices are endless. I decide to start with some of the “Superstars” of the region: Voyager Estate, Leuwinn Estate and Xanadu Wines. Less than 10km south of Margaret River town, they are all within 5mn drive from each other. 

Starting with Voyager Estate, I am instantly taken by the distinctive Dutch architecture and the gorgeous rose gardens. The wine room is very impressive, with several counter areas and more private spaces. There is a choice of counter tasting, Estate or Premium. Selecting Premium, the charge is $20 for 5 wines, refundable upon purchase of wine ( which is a given for me ). I love everything about the experience: the variety of wines, the generosity of the pours, the lovely chat with the host ( I can’t remember her name, but she was a young French lady with an extensive knowledge of wine!) We so wished we’d book for lunch. However, being our first cellar door of the day, we “contend ourselves” with a carton to take away.

It is a hard act to follow for Leuwinn Estate. The grounds are lovely, with a huge lawn where concerts used to be performed. We walk upstairs to the cellar door and are offered tastings at the counter. After the opulence of Voyager Estate, it looks like a reception desk.  I was hoping to have lunch at their renowned restaurant. Yet, without prior reservation, we are told our only food option is a cheese board to purchase and enjoy on the terrace downstairs. That’s also where the art gallery is, where you can see the art used on their wine labels.

It isn’t unpleasant, but there is a distinctive feeling that we are left on our own. With no staff, there is only another couple enjoying their cheese board and wine. We half-joke that we should have booked the Tasting Experience to ensure a “tutored tasting”. In fairness, life could be worse than having a picnic at Leuwinn Estate.

Next is Xanadu Wines. The atmosphere is very relaxed, walking into the courtyard. I hear the sound of laughter and twinkling wine glasses, as a few people are still lingering at their lunch tables. The lady a the counter explains the various tasting options, all involving sampling of 5 wines. Then leaves me to sip at leisure. 

On the way back, we stop by the Margaret River Fresh Produce market. It is a small shop, located on the highway, outside of Margaret River township. Veritable haven if you’re looking for local  farm-fresh produce without the hassle of supermarket shopping ( and parking! ). We pick up a couple of items and head for the beach. A late afternoon swim, sundowners and a BBQ dinner at camp, finish a wonderful day.

Day 3: 

Let’s go and explore the northern section of the Cape to Cape track. We drive up to Cape Naturaliste. Expecting to visit the lighthouse and pick up the hiking trail. Unfortunately, we’re out of luck: the lighthouse is closed for maintenance. So we venture on the easy 4km trail, meandering around the Cape.  

We follow with our first cellar door visit of the day, Wise Winery, as recommended by my Sydney friend Elaine. I am very partial to their Rose and Chardonnay. In the meantime, Mr T enjoys the ocean views from the terrace and contemplates a leisurely lunch at the restaurant. I have other plans and compromise by making an improvised stop at nearby Eagle Bay Brewery. There, we sample and stock up on some of the local beers.

Next we push on to Bunker Bay, where a sheltered and pristine beach awaits. Sadly, the weather is not cooperating. Strong winds and grey skies make the prospect of a swim poor. More disappointing is to find that the Bunker Beach Cafe is closed. I had looked forward to lunch there, but now it is up for sale!  

Never mind,. We head back south on Caves Road, and I randomly pick another cellar door to visit, House of Cards. Because I like the name, inspired by the gamble winemakers and growers take every vintage. It is a low key, family operated winery with a small single vineyard. They still manage to offer a variety of quality wines, all 100% organically grown. And with quirky names like “Joker Rose”. “ The Royals” Chardonnay or “The Queen of Diamond” blanc de blanc, I can’t resist taking a few bottles home. 

There happens to be a chocolate shop next door, Gabriel Chocolate, where I lose myself sampling  some of their homemade single origin chocolate creations. This is in lieu of lunch, I tell Mr T.

Because of the cool weather today, we skip the afternoon beach swim for a tasting at Grace Farm across the road from camp instead. We’re quite hungry, so tonight is early dinner and planning the next day. 

Day 4:

Not so much drinking today, we’re sampling some of the food outlets around Gracetown. A few hundred meters down Cave Road is Margaret River Venison Farm. It is WA’s oldest venison farm, rearing free range venison over 120-hectare. The farm shop includes venison cut, small goods, as well as freshly baked venison pies. Being 9am we skip on the pies, but load up on salami and rissoles for a later feast. 

Tracking back, across the road from the camp, I direct Mr T to Ollio Bello. A 320 acre organic olive farm, with over 8000 olive trees, 12 unique groves and an Italian Pressing Facility,  Ollio Bello also offers a Mediterranean style cafe/restaurant, a gourmet tasting room, and organic beauty products. While Mr T is happy with a coffee, I indulge in deli and olive oil tastings, picking up gift hampers along the way. The property also include lakeside glamping accomodation, not that we need it, though you never know… 

With time to spare before lunch, we stop at Aravina Estate. It is not a random choice. The Estate has partnered with Surfing WA to launch the WA Surf Gallery, an official surfing museum. It’s perfect for Mr T. He wanders among the surfing memorabilia. These include historic surfboards from the 50s to the 70s, old photographs, and trophies. In the meantime, I sip and chat with the host at the cellar door. The wines are good. They all are, really.

But what blew me away was the most beautiful setting. The green garden adjoins a large lake and includes dozens of hydrangeas everywhere. Simply stunning, I can understand why this venue is very popular with weddings. 

Lunch is at Chow’s Table today. This is the onsite restaurant of House of Cards, which we spotted the day before. Owner and Chef, Mal Chow, delivers traditional Chinese/Malay cuisine with a modern twist. After honing his skills in some of the best restaurants in Australia, he returned to his Malaysian/Chinese roots. He worked in places like Vue de Monde in Melbourne, Tetsuya’s in Sydney, and Studio Bistro in Yallingup. Mal pays homage to his cultural background and takes inspiration from his mother and the dishes of his childhood.

He offers a set menu, with a choice of 3 small  (starters) and 3 large (main) plates to be shared between the table.

For starters, we choose the Cured Amber jack with coconut, lychee and spring onion. Next, we have the char Grilled Octopus in hot and sour sauce. Finally, we enjoy the Steak tartare with Xing Jiang Emulsion, chives, egg yolk, and chinese donut.

Mains are: Beef Malay curry, Chinese style roast duck, greens and enoki mushrooms with oyster sauce and almonds. All served with steamed rice. And Delightful House of Cards wines of course! Feeling so full, we have no room for dessert, even asked for containers to take home (which they gracefully oblige).

Definitely in need of a post-lunch swim at our favourite beach.

Day 5:

Today is dedicated to Margaret River’s founding wine estate, Vasse Felix. Not only are we in for tasting but also a long lunch at their celebrated restaurant. 

We start at the Cellar Door Bar with a seated wine tasting. For $10, you can explore the Wine Collection. It includes 5 tastings of your choice. If you prefer the Icon wines, it costs $20. The Cellar Door team is very friendly and truly knowledgeable. Our hostess is from Uruguay, you’d think she was raised on the property. When I tell her we are booked in for the tasting menu next, she hints at some of the wines we may be offered as optional pairings. I promise to return and make my purchases after lunch.

The Vasse Felix restaurant is located upstairs, in an open space overlooking the vineyard. It is a gorgeous setting. The menu is modern Australian in style, created from local and seasonal produce. A-la-carte dining is available. There is also a tasting menu which allows the chef to take us on a Margaret River culinary journey. We opt for the latter, along with the optional wine pairing.  

Sourdough and cultured butter first.

First entree is a savoury doughnut, with goat cheese custard, covered with fig and yuzu glaze. It is such a trick on the senses, with the feel and texture of doughnut, but the salt and tang of goat cheese. The glaze is just sweet enough to balance what is a delicious morsel of food! Paired with Idee Fixe Premier Brut ( a sparkling Blanc de Blanc ) 

The Kingfish tartare next is intriguing: It comes draped in a sheets of dehydrated potato and tapioca charcoal chips. The diced fish is dressed in yuzu, with laver seaweed. I love raw fish and this is take on fish tartare is wonderfully light, sharp, crunchy and savoury.  Paired with Sauv Blanc

One of the mains is Beef short ribs. A thick piece that has been sous-vide in 15h, then compressed and barbecued. It is served with black pepper sauce caviar, on a bed of enoki mushrooms. It’s a robust dish, packed with flavours that is paired perfectly with the signature Cab Sauv.

The palate cleanser is described as mango+yuzu. Oh it is so much more than that: a Yuzu marshmallow filled with Mango lime parfait and sprinkled with Bay leaf sugar. So clever!

Finally, the star of the show is revealed: patagonian toothfish! The Glacier 51 Toothfish is a delicacy. It is found in the depths of the ocean, 2,500 metres below sea level off Heard Island, in Australian’s Sub-Antarctic waters. There, the Fiftyone Glacier at the southern tip, pours into the icy waters. This specific environment has forced the fish to evolve to control their buoyancy. They use fats within their bodies instead of a swim bladder. This results in a fish with a high fat content, firm and white flakes. Chefs label it as “the wagyu of the sea”. At the table, the chef serves a small piece atop potato noodles and tabiko, in ginger dashi broth, and coated with kombu onion bechamel. Paired with the Chardonnay. 

We conclude with a dessert of toasted rice, grapes, kiwi and Crémeux. It is an unusual mix of sweet, creamy, tart and crunchy, yet still fresh from the fruits. I like it very much, curious though it is.

By then, we are very full. I am on cloud nine, the memory of this lunch will last for a long time. Mr T will remember it for a different reason. While the menu is wine-focused, the restaurant holds a producer license. This means they can only sell the liquor produced on site. A tough one for my beer drinking driver, who consumed copious amount of sparkling water instead. 

We linger in the Art Gallery, home to the Janet Holmes a Court art collection. And I keep my promise to the Cellar Door hostess. 

Then Gracetown Beach beckons, time for a lazy swim and a beer for Mr T. He’s certainly earned it.

Day 6:

After meeting a family friend for coffee in Margaret River, we spend a leisurely morning exploring the township. It is the main service centre for the region. Here, big supermarkets mix with trendy cafes, surf shops, banks, hardware stores, and the tourism office! 

What cellar door shall we try today? Cape Mentelle is only 4km down the road from town and has been on my to-do list. Cape Mentelle Margaret River was established as one of the region’s five Founding Wineries in 1970. It is known for their award winning Cabernet Sauvignon. I developed a soft spot for it some time ago, when I found out it was acquired by Veuve Clicquot and LVMH in the 1990’s. It must be the French in me, looking for a sense of familiarity. Incidentally, the winery is now 100% Australian again, after being acquired by Paragon Wine Estates in 2023 ).

The cellar door tasting is hosted in an impressive rammed-earth barrel hall. I delve deep into the heritage Tasting that showcases some of their signature wines like the Heritage Cab Sauv, Wallcliffe Sauv Blanc and Chardonnay. 

Day 7:

The weather gods are smiling on us. This is our last opportunity for a magnificent beach drive to Injidup and Yallingup, north of Gracetown. Ex-surfer Mr T chases nostalgia, revisiting his favourite breaks such as Yallingup main break, the right-hand reef break at Smith Beach and the long rollers of Injidup. 

We make a stop at Yallingup Galleries, the oldest in the Margaret River Region. Set in beautiful bushland, it features works by Australian artists, including paintings, sculptures, furniture, jewellery, glassware, and ceramics. I could buy so many things here. Instead I spend a lot of time browsing inside and exploring the surrounding Yallingup Galleries Sculpture Trail outside. 

On our way back to camp, we stumble on a peaceful vineyard estate, Bettenay’s Margaret River. I heard that the Bettenay family produces decadent, creamy nougat as well as a selection of premium wines. While Mr T stays in the GX ( he’s had enough ), I step into the cellar door and meet my host, James. I enjoy a guided tasting through a selection of great wines: from a toasty Chardonnay to a spicey shiraz, all the way through to sweet, creamy, nougat-inspired liqueurs. I walk out with boxes of wine and nougats. Mr T greets me with a bewildered face, asking “and where are we going to fit all this in?”

All is good in the end. We park one last time in Gracetown to watch  the sun dip below the horizon and toast to a wonderful week of exploring the Margaret River area.