Hakone is one of the most popular day-trip destinations from Tokyo. 

A mountainous town, it is renowned for its onsens ( hot springs ) and year round green scenery, within view of Mount Fuji. Japanese people have come here for centuries to enjoy the natural beauty of the region, staying in the traditional inns called ryokans. Nowadays, international tourists also flock to the area, for leisure and relaxation. After the buzz and busyness of the city, we are certainly looking forward to a tranquil getaway. All we want is to be close to nature, taste amazing food and experience a Japanese ryokan stay. 

Taking the Romancecar to Hakone-Yumoto

The journey from Tokyo ( Shinjuku Station ) to Hakone-Yumoto takes 1.5 hours in the Limited Express Romancecar.

While I have purchased the tickets and reserved the seats online earlier, it is still a challenge to make our way to Shinjuku Station and find our platform. Always present in my mind, is the punctuality of the train service. 

This is our first train ride, and we’re quite impressed with the comfortable seats and the panoramic windows.The train takes us through Tokyo’s urban landscape before entering the scenic countryside. We all get excited at our first sighting of Mount Fuji!

A visit to the Hakone Shrine

We arrive in Hakone-Yumoto Station at lunchtime. It is the getaway to Hakone and a busy transportation hub with many buses and taxis standing by. Our accommodation is within walking distance from the station so we make our way there to drop off our luggage. As it is too early to check in, we decide to spend the afternoon touring in the local (Tozan ) bus.

The lady at the ticket counter is lovely, highlighting the many attractions around Hakone and the availability of the “Hakone Freepass” that covers 8 different transportation networks. There are museums and galleries, temples, parks, and a sulphuric crater… You really need 2 or 3 days to see it all. I explain that unfortunately we only have 4 hours for sightseeing. “Well, that’s long enough to  hop on the Tozan bus to Motohakone, visit the shrine and come back.” 

So, here we are on a 40mn bus ride to Motohakone, on the shores of Lake Ashi. It is one of the most iconic spot. There is a popular Pirate Ship sightseeing boat, that sails from one end of the lake to the other. We give it a miss, as the weather is windy and cold. 

Instead, we walk along the lake to Hakone Shrine. The original shrine dates back to the 8th century and was erected at the summit of Mount Hakone. This “new” relocated shrine, is still 400 years old. The precinct is made up of several buildings, shrines and torii gates. It is the spiritual hub of Hakone. 

You approach it along a path that passes thru a forest of tall cedar trees. Lined with traditional lamps and a mini shrine, the path opens to the main entry.

To the right is a set of stairs leading up the hill to the main shrine. To the left is the iconic torii gate known as the Torii of Peace, which appears to be floating on water. It is a popular spot for photo opportunities and the queue is long.  

We turn away from the water and walk up the steps. About halfway up, is this small sub-shrine dedicated to the Soga Brothers. The Soga Brothers story comes from the late 1100s, and is one of revenge and loyalty. It is dramatized in kabuki plays performed during the New Year.

After ascending the staircase, and passing through another torii at the top of the stairs, the narrow pathway opens to an expansive courtyard surrounded by a low rock wall. From here you can see the outer walls of the shrine, the entrance to Hakone Shrine’s worship hall, the chōzuya  (water purification basin ) and entrance to another sub-shrine.

In this area is a small shop selling amulets and souvenirs. We follow the lead of visitors, bowing and making a wish, in the worship hall. Further along is the sub-shrine called the 9 Headed Dragon Shrine, which honors the nine-headed dragon deity, known as the protector of Lake Ashi.  The chozuya here is very unique: as the water purification basin for the sub-shrine, it  features 9 dragon heads with funnels coming out of their mouths. 

After seeing the shrine and spending a couple of hours taking photos, we  wander thru town, back toward the bus stop. The view from the Moto-Hakone bus stop and pier is spectacular over the lake and the Torii of Peace. Should you walk further along, Mt Fuji can easily be seen beyond the mountains.  By then,  we’re back on the bus, the sun is fast disappearing and we’re keen to relax in our ryokan.

What is a Ryokan?

Ryokans are often found in scenic areas and hot spring resorts, providing a serene and authentic Japanese ambiance. Some have been operating for centuries, and offer a glimpse into Japan’s historical hospitality traditions.These traditional inns differ from western style hotels, not only in infrastructures but also customer service. A typical ryokan  will feature “Japanese structure and equipments” such as tatami-matted rooms, futton beds and communal baths ( onsen ). Usually, meals are included in the accommodation cost. These meals are a highlight of the stay, featuring traditional Japanese cuisine. Dinner and breakfast are served in the guest room, at a specific time in the form of a kaiseki  (multi course) meal. It makes for a more attentive and personalized service than in a modern hotel, where interaction with staff is limited. 

Hakone Onsen Ryokan Yaeikan

Hakone is home to many ryokans. We’re staying at Hakone Onsen Ryokan Yaeikan. It is an old building that meets my main criteria for choice: walking distance from the train station and a private onsen. 

When we arrive to check in at 5pm, we are asked to remove our shoes and hand them for safekeeping in a numbered locker. It’s nothing personal. Most Japanese places, ryokans included, have wooden or tatami flooring, so you’ll either be barefoot or wear provided slippers. This practice helps keep the tatami mats clean and in good condition. 

A staff member leads us thru to our rooms. The building oozes charm with its traditional decor, and feels like a maze of steep steps and dimly lit corridors ( though Mr T comments that wouldn’t be ideal for people with mobility issues ).

With 35 rooms, ours is located at the very top and the end of the hallway. I am very grateful to find that our luggage were delivered earlier. Our room is a Japanese-Style Superior Room with Private Onsen and Mountain View. It is a very generous 55sqm family room, with a separate dining area and bedroom. It is large enough to sleep 4 but we’ve splurged and booked another room for the kids.

The private open-air onsen is the standout feature, and it’s not long before we finally slip in the hot bath and relax, gazing up at the night sky. The kids room is located a floor below. Theirs is a standard room without a view, however it has a sauna and a private indoor onsen. 

Soon, a lovely lady knocks on the door to come in and prepare the dining room for dinner. We have arranged for all the meals to be served in our room at 6pm. That leaves us 30mn to get ready and most importantly for Marc and Anne to find their way to our room ( unsuprisingly, they get lost ! ) 

Kaiseki meals at Hakone Onsen Ryokan Yaeikan

Watching the lady set up the low table is a lesson in omotenashi ( japanese hospitality ). A kaseiki meal consists of several courses, meant to showcase the local ingredients and the chef’s skills. It often includes dishes like sashimi and sukiyaki. Additionally, many small, carefully prepared dishes are served, each in modest portions, to create a diverse and fulfilling dining experience. Usually each course is served one at a time and the name of the dish explained. However, in Hakone Onsen Ryokan Yaeikan, all dishes are served at once. The lady hands us a menu in English, before retiring, gesturing that she will be back later.

We follow the menu order and start with an aperitif of umeshu (plum wine ). It is to accompany the bite-sized appetizers.

Boiled shirona ( silverbeet ) with seasonings/overnight dried blowfish/scallops topped with salted bonito stomach/smoked daikon radish mixed cheese/grilled monkfish liver with seven spice chili pepper/carrot castella/clam and egg

A clear soup of matsutake mushroom, prawn dumplings and yuba ( tofu skin ) acts as a palate cleanser.

A variety of seasonal sashimi includes a boiled prawn, raw squid, tuna and amberjack.

Our lovely lady reappears, with loaded trays of food for the next part of the meal. The main course, as she explains in her broken english.

Soba (Buckwheat) noodles with mushrooms in beef broth are deliciously slippery.

The main main is a shabu shabu or beef hotpot. A large pot filled with kombu dashi ( seaweed broth ) is placed on a portable gas cooktop in the centre of the table. Next to it are two trays: one with uncooked green vegetables, mushrooms and tofu, another one with paper thin slices of well marbled beef. Anne takes charge and grabs the communal long chopsticks to cook the vegetables and the meat slices for everyone.  Once the meat is done ( it only takes minutes ), everyone picks a piece and dips it in their own bowl along with the sesame and ponzu dipping sauces provided. It is a lot of fun, similar to a fondue party. We must sound so enthusiastic, the lady brings us another tray of meat! Much to Marc’s delight.

And when we think, we can’t fit another mouthful, the “meal” arrives: short grain rice mixed with yuba, miso soup and a small serve of pickles. This is what an everyday Japanese meal is made of, in sharp contrast with the more elegantly plated dishes from earlier. Somehow we managed to eat it all.

Thankfully, dessert is small. It is a bowl of sweet red bean soup served warm  with mochi ( rice dumpling ). Called oshiruko, it is typical wintertime dessert. I love the chewiness of the mochi, however the fragrance of the soup is an acquired taste for a lot of us. By then, we’re definitely full. 

While we appreciate the elegant presentation and the variety of the dishes, Mr T, who stopped eating after the shabu shabu, reckons all this food is unnecessary. I think he’s missing the point. Ryokan meals are designed to prevent guests from getting hungry as there are usually no nearby dining options ( though in our case, town is close-by but no one wishes to venture out in the cold ). A lavish and plentiful dinner is part of the generous hospitality.  

Our lovely lady makes a final appearance to clear the table and asks our preferred time for breakfast, before bidding us goodnight. Time to try the  futton beds, they are firm but surprisingly comfortable. In any case, sleep comes fast that night.

The next morning is free until breakfast time at 8am. Marc rises early and ventures out for a sunrise hike nearby. Mr T and I prefer making the most of our onsen. Daylight reveals the extent of the neighborhood and the mountain opposite. We lounge around in the yukata ( dressing gowns ) provided. It is quite a peaceful way to start the day.

As punctual as ever, breakfast is set up and served in our dining room. In a traditional Japanese fashion, it is a veritable feast. With a lot of savoury offerings, this is a far cry from the sweet western brekkie. Various pickles, terrines, a mini quiche, salted fish, steamed egg custard, miso soup, steamed rice, dumplings in broth and a thick slice of honeydew melon complete what I call a breakfast of champions!

Marc and I dig into it with gusto ( diet starts next month! ). Mr T takes a bite of everything, while Anne can only manage the fruit and some soup ( she doesn’t usually eat breakfast anyway ). 

A stroll in Hakone – Yumoto

We check out at 10am, leave our luggage for safe keeping and enjoy a stroll in town as we have spare time before our next train. The main street is lined with shops selling souvenirs and snacks.

Anne is leading the pack, keen on tasting local specialties such as goheimochi, toasted rice sticks smothered in sweet soy sauce. Then washed down with matcha from Chinmoto Cafe. I am still full from breakfast so can only look at onsen-manju ( soft buns filled with red bean paste ), kuro-tamago ( black eggs ), dried eels, and so much more… I do buy some Hakone Caramel rusks, from the Grande Riviere store, to munch on in the train later.  

Hakone for a night was a lot of fun. We really appreciated being able to enjoy the kaiseki dinner and onsen at a leisurely pace. I wish we could have stayed another day though, to explore more of the nature hikes and all the activities around Hakone. Maybe another time…

Next stop: Osaka.